Monday, May 26, 2014

Last Day In Paris!


Today we went to the Louvre. 


It rained on and off all day.


Sometimes the outfits people wear to splash around all day in the chilly rain are surprising.


Then we walked over to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, across the bridge above. We walked around by the river, which reminded me of American In Paris.


The bridge is one of those lock bridges, and is totally coated with them.



Notre Dame. 



The door.


Tomorrow we get up early and head to the airport to go home. We had a wonderful time but are ready to get back to Chicago!

Sunday, May 25, 2014

Versailles, or, How Many Giant Gorgeous Rooms Do You Need?


Today we drove our minute rental car out to Versailles. Despite the fact that we had purchased tickets online as recommended to avoid long lines, we still ended up winding our way through a line that snaked the entire length of the entrance of Versailles three times. The line did move faster than expected, so that was good. The line to purchase tickets there consisted of two people. So, I am not sure I would recommend buying in advance to avoid long lines.


What can I say about Versailles that hasn't been said? Impossibly gilded, filled with art in huge frames, beautiful and jaw-droppingly expensive, massive in a let-the-peasants-starve way...
They do let you photograph everything, which is rare in European castles. (Score one for the French!)




This is the Hall of Mirrors. The chandeliers were lower than expected. 


The ceiling of the private opera, which is two stories tall.


One of the staircases.


A bit of the gardens.


One of the bedrooms. It was really hard getting pictures without several hundred strangers in them.




Even the window locks are amazing.


View back at the palace from the gardens. The sky the past two days has been very dramatic, with rain one minute and blazing sunshine the next. If I were in Illinois I would wonder about tornados, but here they don't have them, so instead I just take pictures and enjoy it.


Louis XIV on a horse with Versailles in the background.


There was a car show near the old stables.


Then we went for crepes right near Versailles. The crepes were delicious, and seemed to be made with buckwheat flour.

And to answer the question, some people need a lot of giant gorgeous rooms.

Saturday, May 24, 2014

7 Things Europe Does Well

We have been in Europe for almost a month now, and in that time I have noticed one or two differences that I would like to call attention to.
Here are some things Europe does really well:


1. Fluffy bedding. Take that old comforter you have on your bed, blow about 15 pounds of puffy feathers into it, wrap it in a duvet that is both soft to the touch and half as wide as it should be, and you will have truly European bedding. In America we would call it a feather bed, but in Europe it's just a light blanket.


2. Bread. Imagine a place where there more bakeries than Starbucks, a country where the government has to keep the bread cheap to discourage rioting, and a continent where bakers have been competing against each other for a looooong time to get customers in their doors by having better bread than the guy selling bread two doors away, and you will have some inkling of how good the baker has to be to survive on the continent of Europe. I mean, centuries, millennia even, of stiff competition has created this zone of unbelievably good bread, which is purchased daily and never eaten stale.
To further up the ante, add in small batches, wood-fired ovens, extra long aprons, and a culture that sniffs when confronted with bread that is inferior in any way, the way Americans sniff at freezer burnt ice cream. (Except that in Europe, they just won't eat bad bread. We will still eat bad ice cream.)



3. Recycling. See that thing above? Used to be an anvil. Now it's on a post as decor. The recycling in Europe, which we have experienced first hand in all of the countries we went to, is quite extensive. Even Italy, which is not a paragon of organization in some ways, had such extreme recycling that we were given sheaves of bags, carefully marked with what they should and should not contain. Because we went to so many different places, I eventually could not keep up with the varieties of separation in each place-  glass and metal together or apart? Paper with or without plastic? What about egg shells? Finally, in Germany, I was unable to remember what the latest recycling system was and stored some of our garbage until we left, then snuck it into a garbage can at a rest stop like a lazy American garbage fugitive. I think there were cameras, but they will never catch me!


4. And I can't believe I haven't gotten to this yet- towel warmers. Some genius thought, "You know, when I get out of my shower it would be really great if I had a nice warm towel to dry off with," and made it reality. (Only, they may have thought it in German or Swedish or whatever.) Anyway, this genius person was not only allowed to fulfill their creative vision, but encouraged by millions of imitators and that is why when you get out of the shower in Europe you will find one of these lovely objects, more often than not, right where it would be really handy to keep your towel, so that you too may dry off with a warm towel and not with a cold one. Because that's how they roll in Europe.


5. Old. They do old well in Europe. The house pictured above is not the oldest house in Europe by a long shot. It's practically new, really. There are cathedrals which took 400 years to build and no one except for us Americans seems to think it noteworthy. I have seen old ladies who, where I come from, would be sitting all day in a darkened living room, watching Wheel of Fortune for the next few years, waiting for the sweet chariot to roll down and carry them home. But instead they are European and are riding a bike, in the rain, helmet less, with giant bags of groceries on the handlebars and a small dog in their front basket. Yes, they are wearing tan colored hose and their baggy black dresses flap as they pedal by, but still - on a bike at 80, yelling at tourists- still feisty and having a ball.



6. Strange vehicles. Europe is packed with odd cars, strange vans, and weird golf carts like the one above. The roads are often small and winding, and so very narrow vehicles with three wheels are quite practical. Some of them seem to have been built by a very creative and equally obsessive person (out of work watchmaker?) who made their tiny "van" super efficiently out of perfectly shaped metal and a powerful engine, but without any of the normal this-is-what-a-car-looks-like design influence. Those vehicles are road worthy but odd looking, and are everywhere -speeding past slow drivers on the autobahn, slipping into impossibly small parking spaces, delivering hay to the cows.




7. Trust. Europeans seem to trust that you are interested in your own safety and will not kill yourself in dumb ways. The photo above is a hotel hair dryer. It has no giant sticky label on it with warnings in four languages that you really shouldn't try to use it while you are taking a bubble bath. They do not have nutrition information posted for every menu item, warning you that yes, indeedy, there are CALORIES in that chocolate croissant. Their playgrounds are filled with spinning, swinging metal objects without padding of any kind. Their lights don't have posted labels to tell you that there is genuine electricity flowing through, and you should be careful so you don't Risk A Shock. 
It's like as a continent, they shrugged and decided that if you are alive still you will probably figure out how to maneuver around Dangerous Hot Coffee and so they don't warn you about it and so far, so good. They seem to have made it, despite the things that Could Go Wrong.


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Paris, Day 1


Today is Dashiell's 11th birthday. Since we have been in Europe for almost a month, he has had no access to cereal, sugary or otherwise. He has had chocolate croissants galore, so don't feel sorry for him. But since it is his birthday, we let him pick this disgusting cereal for his birthday breakfast. As you can see, he enjoyed it.


Then we went to the Eiffel Tower, which was his biggest plan for his special day. We stood in line for over two hours, which was really ok because they were out of advance tickets online. We spent all night two nights ago trying to get advance tickets and feeling like loser parents because we couldn't. But, there were lots of tickets still available at the tower itself. Despite the cold and rain, the tourists were out in full force.






Then we went to the airport to switch cars. Our original reservation expired today, so we had been planning to take the famed Metro everywhere, but then as we looked into it more we discovered that just the trip to Versailles on the Metro would cost over 40 Euros, and we could rent a car for the four days for only $130. So, our American love of instant travel won out and we picked up this tiny car today.


It is really, truly, the smallest car we have ever been in, but still doesn't feel too small. A few more days in Paris with the wonderful bread might change our ability to fit...


See what I meant earlier about the parking lot at Orly?

And finally, to finish up the Paris birthday, Dash picked Pizza Hut for dinner. We trudged over to it in the rain, got the pizza, and walked back with it to our hotel. 
Three doors down our hallway, there were several French police officers, some criminal investigators in white hazmat suits and masks, and a police photographer taking pictures and muttering quietly to each other in French. They are currently taping off a white van below our window.
So, we got into our tiny apartment as quickly as possible and sang Happy Birthday for the twentieth time, ate our pizza, fries, and chicken sandwiches and tried not to wonder what on earth is going on down the hallway.

We are getting the full Paris experience! 




Verdun, May 23


After our tour of Strasbourg Cathedral, we drove to the Verdun battlefield. It is poppy season, which is fitting.


On our way, we saw some old bunkers from the Maginot Line out in fields full of what looked like wheat. The bunkers are just there, in the middle of the fields, without anything to mark them. We saw one sign with an arrow that told us we were in the Maginot Line area, so we knew to be on the lookout.
The Maginot Line was a series of defensive bunkers built by the French between the two World Wars to keep the Germans from invading through the south of France as they had during World War I. However, the Germans went through Belgium and completely bypassed the line and took over France in six weeks.
But that's another war.


Verdun is the location of some of the highest number of casualties of the First World War. 


The French built this monument to their fallen, and on both sides, past the bushes you see above, are fields that look like this:


This is where some of the Fremch soldiers who died in the area are buried.


Besides the graves, the area has been largely untouched, and there are trenches, bunkers, forts, and battlefields slowly being grown over by trees and grass.

There are no tour guides or anyone to make sure that you don't get lost in the woods, so you can wander at will, seeing everything at your own pace.


The area set aside for remembrance is huge, and you could explore it all for days, but we were there for only an afternoon.


The French had a railway built into this fort.


The view looking out from the fort. The barbed wire is still there.


Inside of one of the bunkers, which had this tunnel going almost straight down.





Then we got back into the car for the final leg of our journey, to Paris for a few days.